THE LONG MARCH - REVISITED
I embarked on this photographic journey 70 years later to document the route my Uncle Douglas and 2,000 fellow POWs, from the infamous North Compound, (location of The Wooden Horse escape October 1943 and The Great Escape March 1944), took on The Long March from Stalag Luft III, Sagan to their point of liberation 3 months later in Lubeck, North Germany. What has changed? What has remained for me to literally walk in his footsteps and see what he saw? The extreme cold of that 1945 winter could not be replicated by Mother Nature 70 years later. Travelling the route would be a way for me to get as close to the Uncle I sadly never met.
The march from Stalag Luft II in Silesia began on 27th January 1945 and lasted over nine days. The march was in two stages. The first by foot, when over 10,000 prisoners from all five compounds were force-marched west along icy roads for around 100km from the prison camp in Poland to Spremberg railway station, in eastern Germany. This leg took six-and-a-half days approximately (times varied according to where in the column each group was) with the destination reached in the afternoon of 2 February. It would seem that, because Sagan station was not connected to the main German rail network, the prisoners had to trek west in order to access a railhead linked to the Reich system which could transport them north-east.
The second stage was effected by rail in French cattle trucks. These contained more then 40 men each and they rolled out of Spremberg at around 23.00 hrs on the 2nd, finishing their journey at around 16.30 hrs on 3rd February, after between 41 and 48 hours travelling (estimates varied, some groups arriving later than others). The trip had taken place in appallingly unsanitary conditions, the only hygiene facility being a bucket in the centre of each wagon. The total distance covered was around 620km. This was to Tarmstadt, the station for a German Marlag naval camp, 96 km north of Hannover.
This project has been published in The Daily Telegraph Magazine and other publications.
The Boulevard
Looking down ‘The Boulevard’ exiting Stalag Luft III camp on the left. POWs took their first steps of The Long March long this track passing the guard tower on the left and within feet of The Great Escape Tunnel Harry on the right, that exited just a few feet shy of the tree line on the right.
First Steps
Exiting ‘The Boulevard’ Allied POWs began walking Gorlitz Road, (now the 296 Lotnikow Alianckich Road), in the early dark and cold hours of 28th January 1945 carrying as much as they could muster with only an hour’s notice to leave camp.
They began in formation, four abreast, but soon deteriorated into a single file stretching miles into the distance. Some of the prisoners found it exhilarating to be out on the road – enjoying ‘the freedom of walking through the countryside after so many years of confinement’, as one wrote in an anonymous diary held by the RAF Ex–Prisoner of War Association. - The Last Escape by John Nichol & Tony Rennell, p69
Gorlitz Road
2 miles out of Stalag Luft III heading on Gorlitz Road, (now the 296 Lotnikow Alianckich Road).
They began in formation, four abreast, but soon deteriorated into a single file stretching miles into the distance. Some of the prisoners found it exhilarating to be out on the road – enjoying ‘the freedom of walking through the countryside after so many years of confinement’, as one wrote in an anonymous diary held by the RAF Ex–Prisoner of War Association.
- The Last Escape by John Nichol & Tony Rennell, p69
Czerna
Along the Gorlitz Road, (now the 296 Lotnikow Alianckich Road passing through the village of Czerna), just a few minutes away from the underpass of the Autobahn, (now E36), that some POWs took a brief rest before moving onto Halbau, (now Ilowa).
They began in formation, four abreast, but soon deteriorated into a single file stretching miles into the distance. Some of the prisoners found it exhilarating to be out on the road – enjoying ‘the freedom of walking through the countryside after so many years of confinement’, as one wrote in an anonymous diary held by the RAF Ex–Prisoner of War Association.
- The Last Escape by John Nichol & Tony Rennell, p69
Halibut Church
10 miles and 4 ½ hours into The Long March, Halibau Church, (now Ilowa) in the centre of the picture was refuge on the first night for POWs from Centre Camp Stalag Luft III. During a raging blizzard 600 POWs took refuge inside the church with 1,400 taking refuge in the crypt behind the church and the school beside that is still a school today.
Friewaldau
Passing through Friewaldau, (now Gozdnica) the initial group of POWs from Stalag Luft III setting the route for The Long March found, as Douglas William Finlay RAF DFC wrote in his POW diary, “…civilians quite friendly…”
Friewaldau was reached by mid-morning after 18 miles forced marching.
Friedwaldau is the fist good sized town which we reach in the afternoon, No real food yet; only hasty snacks from tins when we pause for the ten minute rest and, worst of all, nothing to drink. We sit in the gutter while it snows for three hours, and try to get a decent cold meal, scrounging hot water from houses.
- Squadron Leader Laurie Simpson, POW roommate of Douglas Finlay
- ‘OPS’ Victory At All Costs, Andrew R.B. Simpson, p381
Friewaldau II
Passing through Friewaldau, (now Gozdnica) the initial group of POWs from Stalag Luft III setting the route for The Long March found, as Douglas William Finlay RAF DFC wrote in his POW diary, “…civilians quite friendly…”
Friewaldau was reached by mid-morning after 18 miles forced marching.
Friedwaldau is the fist good sized town which we reach in the afternoon, No real food yet; only hasty snacks from tins when we pause for the ten minute rest and, worst of all, nothing to drink. We sit in the gutter while it snows for three hours, and try to get a decent cold meal, scrounging hot water from houses.
- Squadron Leader Laurie Simpson, POW roommate of Douglas Finlay
- ‘OPS’ Victory At All Costs, Andrew R.B. Simpson, p381
Barns of Springruh
After 12 hours of walking leaving Stalag Luft III at 4am on the morning of 28th January 1945 in -25c temperatures covering 22 miles Douglas Finlay and other POWs reached their first stopping point of barns in the village of Springruh, now Lipna.
Sun 28.1.45: …marched on at 15:30 reaching Springruh at dusk – bitterly cold. Paddy all in – Curly and I carry him – long wait for a barn 12 hrs rest. Distance 35 kilos – worst day of all.
- POW Diary, Douglas William Finlay, RAF, DFC
Bad Maskau Theatre
The cinema, cream coloured building closed in 2010, that Douglas Finlay and hundreds of other POWs took shelter for 3 days in Bad Maskau. Thousands of POWs crossed the River Neisse for their second night having walked another 20 miles into The Long March. Douglas took shelter, a hot brew and a good wash in the cinema
Maskau Park a UNESCO Heritage Site runs either side of the River Neisse encompassing the German town of Bad Maskau and the Polish town of Leknica.
Mon 29.1.45: …Muskau at 1900 – quartered in Theatre – crowded but warm & dry – hot brew & good wash – distance 30 kilos.
Tues 30.1.45: Quiet day at Maskau – people friendly trading for cigs etc. Germans supply bread & marg at last.
- POW Diary, Douglas William Finlay, RAF, DFC
Bad Maskau
Entering the town of Bad Maskau hundreds of POWs took shelter and rest for 3 days. Douglas Finlay and thousands of POWs crossed the River Neisse for their second night having walked another 20 miles into The Long March. Douglas took shelter, a hot brew and a good wash in the Theatre.
Maskau Park a UNESCO Heritage Site runs either side of the River Neisse encompassing the German town of Bad Maskau and the Polish town of Leknica.
Mon 29.1.45: …Muskau at 1900 – quartered in Theatre – crowded but warm & dry – hot brew & good wash – distance 30 kilos.
Tues 30.1.45: Quiet day at Maskau – people friendly trading for cigs etc. Germans supply bread & marg at last.
- POW Diary, Douglas William Finlay, RAF, DFC
Leaving Bad Maskau
Leaving Bad Maskau en route to Spremberg.
Fri 2.2.45. Sledges abandoned after 4km – packed up! – heavy going carry food – reached Granstun [Grausteinj] at dawn, 3hrs sleep in a barn.
- POW diary, Douglas William Finlay, RAF, DFC
Derek Hodgkinson POW wrote;
We met up with North Compound column on the outskirts of Muskau and moved together into the open countryside. The conditions were appalling. The snow had been replaced by a thick slush and mud. It quickly became apparent that sledging was near impossible. A few hardy individuals struggled on, but sledge after sledge had to be abandoned with their contents. After an hour or so the clouds cleared and the moon came out – to reveal the full horror of the situation. It looked like the retreat from Moscow. Sledges were upended with their contents spread all over the roadside verges; prisoners frantically trying to stuff as much as they could into kit bags, which they then had to carry over their shoulders or under their arms. Perhaps the most pathetic sight I saw was a chap sitting, crying, on his sledge, the sole contents of which were the heaped pages of the book he had spent the last three years writing; he knew he could not carry them, and yet he could not bring himself to abandon them.
- ‘OPS’ Victory At All Costs, Andrew R.B. Simpson, p386
Spremberg Train Station Approach
The approach road to today’s Spremberg train station. POWs walked along this approach road to get on trains at the original station, now disused on the right background, beside the modern station.
Fri 2.2.45…0730-1030 – Marched on to Spremberg – reached Military Barracks at 1400hrs – Germans supply hot meal – joined by East Camp =- left 1400 hrs on train 1730. Distance for day 30km. – 40 officers/cattle truck – departed about midnight.
- POW Diary, Douglas William Finlay, RAF, DFC
For most of the Sagan prisoners of war the arching was over, but there was still no sign of an end to their journey. In a siding outside of [Spremberg] prisoners were packed into a cattle train, seventy to a truck. There were no window, and the only light came through the cracks in the wooden sides, which also provided some welcome ventilation. Many of these men also had dysentery, and the filth and the stench were overpowering.
- The Last Escape by John Nichol & Tony Rennell, p.80
Tarmstadt Train Station
After 3 days crammed into train carriages the POWs disembarked at Tarmstadt train station, the platform on the left, where they continued their march for another 3km before reaching Camp Marlag Milag und Nord where they were deloused and searched for 2 hours.
Marlag Milag und Nord a former naval prisoner of war camp declared unfit and unsanitary by the Red Cross housed this new intake of POWs for 2 months before they were force marched for another 80 miles over 15 days to reach camp at Lubeck.
Sun 4.2.45: …Verden 12000 – 1500 – first water of trip – atrocious treatment – Tarmstadt at 16.30 – left train and marched 3 km to Marlag – reach camp 17.30, kept waiting in wet until midnight while 2000 POW were searched – finally in bed about 0100 hrs & so to sleep.
- POW Diary, Douglas William Finlay, RAF, DFC
On the three-day train journey from Spremberg, described as ‘a hell hole’ [Hartnell-Beavis] on achingly hard floors, fellow travellers lay side by side like sardines, overlapping each other so that some inevitably ended up on top of the others. Half of them were ill. For one whole night they cowered as the train sat in Hanover station during an air raid. Finally they reach Marlag Nord, a camp normally reserved for naval prisioners of war which was/ to be their new home. The Red Cross had already condemned it as unfit and insanitary. As he walked through the gates, Hartnell-Beavis thought it ‘the most derelict collection of huts I had ever set eyes on’.
The Last Escape by John Nichol & Tony Rennell, p.82
Disembarking at Tarmstadt train station the POWs left Tarmstadt and walked another 3km to reach Camp Marlag Milag und Nord. Here is the road between Tarmstadt and Camp Marlag at Westertimke.
Sun 4.2.45: …Verden 12000 – 1500 – first water of trip – atrocious treatment – Tarmstadt at 16.30 – left train and marched 3 km to Marlag – reach camp 17.30, kept waiting in wet until midnight while 2000 POW were searched – finally in bed about 0100 hrs & so to sleep.
- POW Diary, Douglas William Finlay, RAF, DFC
Tarmstadt at 1630 hrs – left train and marched 3 kms to a Larlag – reached it at 1800 hrs but kept waiting in heavy fog and mist on waterlogged road until after midnight while 2,000 POWs were individually searched. This was the lat straw. Quiote a few collapsed waiting to enter the camp. Finally we got to sleep on the brick floor of a hut with a bit of wood straw at 0230 hrs
- J.A Rydings POW in Stalg Luft III hut with Douglas Finlay
We quickly tumble out of the train and then move off slowly up the road, with frequent stops, to arrive at a Navy camp in the dark. Instead of going straight in – and I don’t think I shall ever be so glad to see a POW camp – we stand in the slush and cold for three hours. This wait is absolutely the end – exhausted, dirty, hungry, and thirsty – and so near rest and warmth!
- Willatt, POW,
- ‘OPS’ Victory At All Costs, Andrew R.B. Simpson, p390
Entrance to Camp Marlag Milag und Nord
After 3 days crammed into train carriages the POWs disembarked at Tarmstadt train station, the platform on the left, where they continued their march for another 3km before reaching Camp Marlag Milag und Nord where they were deloused and searched for 2 hours.
Marlag Milag und Nord a former naval prisoner of war camp declared unfit and unsanitary by the Red Cross housed this new intake of POWs for 2 months before they were force marched for another 80 miles over 15 days to reach camp at Lubeck.
On the three-day train journey from Spremberg, described as ‘a hell hole’ [Hartnell-Beavis] on achingly hard floors, fellow travellers lay side by side like sardines, overlapping each other so that some inevitably ended up on top of the others. Half of them were ill. For one whole night they cowered as the train sat in Hanover station during an air raid. Finally they reach Marlag Nord, a camp normally reserved for naval prisioners of war which was/ to be their new home. The Red Cross had already condemned it as unfit and insanitary. As he walked through the gates, Hartnell-Beavis thought it ‘the most derelict collection of huts I had ever set eyes on’.
- The Last Escape by John Nichol & Tony Rennell, p.82
Sun 4.2.45: …Tarmstadt at 16.30 – left train and marched 3 km to Marlag – reach camp 17.30, kept waiting in wet until midnight while 2000 POW were searched – finally in bed about 0100 hrs & so to sleep.
- POW Diary, Douglas William Finlay, RAF, DFC
Camp Marlag Milag und Nord
After 3 days crammed into train carriages the POWs disembarked at Tarmstadt train station, the platform on the left, where they continued their march for another 3km before reaching Camp Marlag Milag und Nord where they were deloused and searched for 2 hours.
Marlag Milag und Nord a former naval prisoner of war camp declared unfit and unsanitary by the Red Cross housed this new intake of POWs for 2 months before they were force marched for another 80 miles over 15 days to reach camp at Lubeck.
On the three-day train journey from Spremberg, described as ‘a hell hole’ [Hartnell-Beavis] on achingly hard floors, fellow travellers lay side by side like sardines, overlapping each other so that some inevitably ended up on top of the others. Half of them were ill. For one whole night they cowered as the train sat in Hanover station during an air raid. Finally they reach Marlag Nord, a camp normally reserved for naval prisioners of war which was/ to be their new home. The Red Cross had already condemned it as unfit and insanitary. As he walked through the gates, Hartnell-Beavis thought it ‘the most derelict collection of huts I had ever set eyes on’.
- The Last Escape by John Nichol & Tony Rennell, p.82
Sun 4.2.45: …Tarmstadt at 16.30 – left train and marched 3 km to Marlag – reach camp 17.30, kept waiting in wet until midnight while 2000 POW were searched – finally in bed about 0100 hrs & so to sleep.
- POW Diary, Douglas William Finlay, RAF, DFC
